THAT LITTLE WINE BAR
James The Sommelier – Service
‘Wine honors the soul, so honor it with yours.’
Valentine’s Day: A day for Merlot
Valentine’s Day has been and gone with the usual
professions of love, despite some religious groups in Indonesia
declaring it as ‘haram’ and ‘headscarf day’… but, each to their own.
And with that in mind, That Little Wine Bar celebrated it in the only
way it knows how – with excellent food and wine. With the choice of a
set meal or a la carte, customers were treated to expansive yet also
bespoke food menus. But what about the wine? Looking back on the
evening, there was a certain trend in the drinking habits and, I’m
pleased to say, everybody chose – whether recommended or not – very
good wines. So, what exactly was drunk on the evening of
love.
It was
an outstanding night for Merlot. Not quite the grape of seductive
sex-appeal – I think that would traditionally go to Pinot Noir – but
not surprising as to its smooth, silky body. Merlot is most commonly
used as a blending grape due to its non-tannic and non-acidic character
which balances well with more powerful grapes such as Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The right bank of the Gironde River in
Bordeaux, France, concentrates its yields on the Merlot grape - giving
us the famous communes of St. Emilion and Pomerol - which use a portion
of the yields of Merlot to contribute to the famous bottles of Bordeaux
blends – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Also in
Italy, a country famous for making slightly more acidic red wines,
Merlot is used to soften Sangiovese grown in areas such as Tuscany,
Veneto, Alto Adige and Umbria. During the Valentine’s Day meal, the
favorite blend was a Villa Maria Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot 2009,
New Zealand, 58% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and
4% Malbec a traditional Bordeaux blend.
However, it is used to make varietal red wines and, when done so,
displays a character of plum, berry and current culminating in a soft
but fleshy, medium bodied red wine. On Valentine’s Day, its agreeable
and subservient character did not fail to please our local Malaysian
crowd of guests. One label, the Chateau Flouquet St. Emilion 2009, was
particularly popular and it is always a bottle that I enjoy seeing on
the table of a less experienced wine drinker. Certainly, for the local
Malaysian wine palate exploring any complex wines of note - such as
from Bordeaux - the discovery into the taste of wine not displaying an
overbearing fruity character (from Australia… for example) leaves them
with an obvious sense of shock over the realization that there is more
to wine than first thought. Being a blend of 70% Merlot and 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon, this label does more than just provide for easy
drinking but challenges the drinker with its predominantly earthy
character interspersed with plum and fine tannin. Paired with our
special main of the night, Argentinian Grass-fed Baby Tenderloin, it
complimented the slight sweetness of the truffle mash and beetroot
while the wine’s nine month age in tank before bottling aided in
balancing the protein rich tenderloin. Even with the dessert, Cherry
Clafouti, the cherry fruit lifted the label’s subtle fruit and stood up
to its fleshy character.
Of course, as evening to celebrate, these are but a few examples of
what wines were quaffed on Valentine’s Day. But, full credit must go to
everybody who celebrated at That Little Wine Bar for profiling wine as
what it should be – a drink, to drink, to get drunk and enjoy a
memorable evening.
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